I started this crochet hexagon afghan about 6 months after teaching myself to crochet some four years ago. The whole purpose of me learning was so that I could teach my daughter, who said she really, really wanted to learn. As most moms know, the child frequently loses interest while we get addicted to whatever. LOL
Anyway, while this is a beautiful pattern (and afghan), it felt like I was never going to finish it (It’s still not finished.), which is why the project stalled. I’ve worked on it in fits and spurts. The original pattern said it’d need 40 hexagons. I’m at 38. I think it’s going to need a lot more than that for it to be useful.
Regardless, I put it down for a year or more. When I picked it back up yesterday, I had forgotten the pattern. After a thorough internet search, I discovered the original post of the pattern has disappeared. (Yeah! o.O) As I’m not really a veteran crocheter, it took me a couple of hours to figure out what I’d done. So, to prevent this from happening again, I’m posting the pattern. This is not the original pattern as I had adjusted it by adding a row and a few extra stitches. (Next time, I’ll stick to the pattern. I think I just added more work than I needed. LOL) If you remember the original pattern and afghan, you’ll see that the person who posted it was much better at it than I am. I’m still learning. 🙂
I don’t know all of the terminology, so bear with me. I’ve also embedded a 13+ minute video at the bottom of the post to show how to do the fancy fourth/fifth/sixth row pattern.
Crochet Hexagon Afghan Pattern
Yarn: I believe I have 4 weight. I’ve gone through too many skeins already. LOL The yarn really should be a medium weight. If you go to heavy, it won’t look right. You also want to be sure that you use all the same weight of yarn. Oh, and that it’s soft. 🙂
Hook: H or 5.00 MM
Abbreviations (Not all of these are standard crochet abbreviations. Some are mine.)
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
tr = triple (treble) crochet stitch
hdc = half double crochet — it’s not really a half double crochet, but it’s a similar principle.
yo = yarn over (How to Yarn Over)
Chain 4 then ss at the beginning of the chain to create a loop.
1st row: Now, put your hook through the hole and do a sc. Repeat this until you have a total of 12 sc. Connect the last sc to the first with a ss. This finishes the first “row”.
2nd row: Through the top of that first sc stitch, do another sc. Go to the next sc, and do another sc. Repeat until you have a total of 12 sc. SS to connect the last sc of the 2nd row to first one.
3rd row: This is where it starts getting a little tricky. I say “tricky” because I don’t really know the official name for this stitch. I’m sure it has one, but I just don’t know it. So, what you’re going to do is go into the first sc stitch and chain 2. YO and go back into the top of that first sc stitch of the 2nd row as if you are going to do a dc. YO and pull the hook through. YO again, and instead of pulling the yarn all the way through for a hdc, you pull the yarn through only 1 loop on your hook. YO again and now pull the yarn through all of the loops until you only have one hoop on your hook. Chain one to tie off the top of this “petal” and chain one more time. YO before sticking your hook through the top of the next sc of the 2nd row. YO and pull the hook through the sc. YO again, and instead of pulling the yarn all the way through for a hdc, you pull the yarn through only 1 loop on your hook. YO before sticking your hook through the same hole. YO and pull the hook through the sc. YO again, and, instead of pulling the yarn all the way through, only pull through the first loop. YO and pull the yarn through all of the loops. (I’m going to call this a modified hdc, even if it’s not.) Chain 1 to tie off the top of the petal and chain one. Repeat above process until you’ve completed a total of 12. Finish the row with a ss into the 1st “petal”.
Be sure to count the number of petals you have before you finish up the row. Trust me when I say this will save you a lot of time and headache.
4th row: Insert your hook in the hole between the first and second petal. Chain 2 and repeat the above process to create another petal, but, instead of 2 modified hdcs, do 3. This increases the petal size. Close off each petal by chaining one then chain 2. Why 2 and not one? Because you need a little more space to reach the hole between the 2nd and 3rd petal. Insert your hook into the next hole, and repeat. Do this until you have a total 12 petals in the row. Finish off the row with a ss into the 1st petal.
5th row (not in the original pattern): Repeat above, but instead of 3 modified hdcs, it’s 4. Chain 3 between each petal. Make sure have 12 petals in the row before finishing with a ss into the 1st petal of that row.
6th row: In the center of the hole of between the 1st and 2nd petal in row 5, attach the yarn with a sc. Now, chain 4. In the next hole between petal 2 and 3, attach with a sc. Repeat until you finish that row. Close the row with a ss. You now have a circle chain around your first 5 rows as seen in the photo to the right. Notice there is a space between the 6th row and the 5th row. This is where you are going to start with row 7.
7th (and final–yahoo!) row: On that first chain of four of row 6, attach yarn with a ss and chain 3. TR 3. Chain 1. Into next chain of 4 of row 6, tr 3, chain 2. Staying in the same chain of 4, tr 3. This gives you the corner of the hexagon. Now, chain 1 and move onto the next chain of 4 of row 6. TR 4. Chain 1. In the ne
xt section, tr 3, chain 2, tr 3. Chain 1. You will have alternating 4 tr with 6 tr as shown in the picture to the right. Repeat this until you have finished the row. You should have 6 corners total.
In the original pattern, the corner section of the 7th row was 2 tr, 2 chain, 2 tr. This is where I added a few stitches. These extra trs aren’t needed, but, since I had already done it with the first 10 or so, I’ve kept doing it for consistency.
And that’s it. I hope that you (and I) understand this well enough to be able to do it.
And here’s the video.
